Friday, March 26, 2021

At War: In Kabul’s streets, dogs rule the night

Few people have passed through Afghanistan without taking note of the country's dogs.

In Kabul's Streets, Dogs Rules the Night

Author Headshot

By C. J. Chivers

Writer-at-Large

Dear reader,

Few people have passed through Afghanistan without taking note of the country's dogs. Whether I recall the massive, heavy-headed mastiffs of the steppe or the fast, compact mutts of the mountains, or the flea-covered and often affectionate pups that took up residence at battlefield outposts, my own varied encounters with Afghanistan's dogs form a small body of memory that sometimes causes me to shudder and other times to smile.

Afghanistan, like most anywhere, is a boundless subject. Its canines have a place in its canon.

A dog sleeping outside Aryub Cinema.Jim Huylebroek for The New York Times

I'll spare you my own dog stories but at the same time commend to you this week a dispatch published by Fatima Faizi and Thomas Gibbons-Neff, two journalists with The New York Times who work in Kabul. (Look at the photos as well, by Jim Huylebroek.)

Their story, of the packs of dogs that occupy the streets of Kabul city, the country's capital, and exert a menacing influence by night, is one more look at the disorders afflicting a nation sapped by decades of war. There is, of course, no shortage of metaphors for Afghanistan's dangers and dysfunctions, and there is no need to torture a new one from a brief reportage on the feral canines lurking about the capital.

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This story can be read in straightforward fashion, including this summary of yet another threat Afghans must measure and elude: "Certain streets and intersections almost demarcate thief and dog territory," Ms. Faizi and Mr. Gibbons-Neff wrote, "where groups of a dozen or so strays led by a pack leader that residents have come to easily recognize prowl between the shadows and the pitch black strips of road where people dare not walk."

Stray dogs by a pile of trash on a street in Kabul.Jim Huylebroek for The New York Times

In this telling, however, not everyone is ruled by fear. One official leaves open a theater as a dog shelter, where the packs gather and avoid being pelted by stones. And one pack of children coexists with a pack of dogs near a cemetery atop a hill where the children fly kites. I prefer to resist nostalgia and all things maudlin, but it's hard not to be buoyed for a moment by a glimpse of a street understanding that is both pragmatic and bright.

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No doubt there is no immediate or likely solution to Kabul's dog problems. You can safely bet that the city's feral packs — like distrust in government, like an excessive number of weapons — will endure indefinitely, or maybe even grow.

Meanwhile, I'll hope you can appreciate a fresh dispatch and new view from a war old enough that its sorrows can feel far too familiar.

— Chris

C.J. Chivers is a staff writer for The New York Times Magazine. He received a Pulitzer Prize for feature writing in 2017 and is the author of two books, including "The Fighters," which chronicled the experiences of six American combatants in Afghanistan and Iraq.

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READ THE DISPATCH ON KABUL'S DOGS.

Afghan War Casualty Report: March 2021

Security officials gathering in the aftermath of a bomb explosion in Kabul this week.Hedayatullah Amid/EPA, via Shutterstock

At least 195 pro-government forces and 104 civilians have been killed so far in March. [Read the casualty report.]

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