Friday, October 18, 2024

Race/Related: Are Korean American Atlanta hot wings the best?

The best hot wings are in Atlanta, but you can make them at home.
Race/Related

October 18, 2024

A man in a gray baseball cap and blue hooded sweatshirt holds a bright red hot wing, smiling at it mid-bite. A platter of the chicken wings sits in front of him on a table. In the back, a golf game is playing on the television and a Georgia Bulldogs banner hangs on the wall.
Jun Yum, seen here at Cafe Hot Wing 7 in Suwanee, Ga., was once part of the family wing business in Atlanta. Known for their crisp exterior, tender meat and peppery, vinegary flavor, Atlanta's Korean American-style hot wings can be hard to find outside of a handful of locations in the suburbs. Melissa Golden for The New York Times

There's no hot wing like a Korean American Atlanta hot wing

There was a time in Hank Kim's life when eating hot, crisp-fried chicken wings every day was the norm — he could easily down about 20 in a sitting — not least because his family opened a wing shop, Cafe Hot Wing, in 1988.

Another reason he could put away so many? The wings in question were smaller, sharper in flavor, even lighter than their Northern cousins, Buffalo wings. Much like the Atlanta hot wings of today, these Korean American wings were coated with a red-hot sauce, unbridled in their cayenne flavor and vinegary tang. One could argue that they were a dialed-up version, with a focused intensity in their blend of hot sauce, spices and pepper. A touch to the lips might make you break a sweat. That's why they often came with celery and carrot sticks and a cup of blue cheese dip or ranch, to tame the flames.

In 1980s Atlanta, this style of hot wing (and its cooling plate-mates) gained footing as a fast food meal for a growing Korean American community. Unfortunately, these particular wings aren't around anymore, or at least they're harder to find. The one surefire way you can taste them today is to make them at home.

A man in a gray baseball cap and blue hooded sweatshirt holds a bright red hot wing, smiling at it mid-bite. A platter of the chicken wings sits in front of him on a table. In the back, a golf game is playing on the television and a Georgia Bulldogs banner hangs on the wall.

Melissa Golden for The New York Times

See the recipe and read the story

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