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Wednesday, December 4, 2024

The T List: Six things we recommend this week

Anna Sui's beauty regimen, a riverside hotel in Lisbon — and more.
T Magazine

December 4, 2024

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Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday, along with monthly travel and beauty guides, and the latest stories from our print issues. And you can always reach us at tmagazine@nytimes.com.

STEP BY STEP

Anna Sui Shares Her Everyday Lipstick and Eyeliner

Left: a woman wearing red lipstick and a black shirt and jacket. Right: a collage of beauty products including a pink bottle of soap and black brush on a light blue background.
Left: the fashion designer Anna Sui. Right, clockwise from left: Anna Sui Perfect eyeliner, $29, annasui.com; Mistral bath foam in Lychee Rose Floral, $38, mistralsoap.com; Clearstem Hydraglow stem cell moisturizer, $56, clearstem.com; Nars Powermatte High-Intensity lip pencil in Dragon Girl, $30, narscosmetics.com; Anna Sui eau du parfum in Electric Whisper, $77, annasui.com; Denman brush, $21.95, denmanbrushus.com; R+Co Primary Color Shampoo, $49, randco.com Portrait: Huy Luong. Products: courtesy of the brands

Interview by Angela Koh

I start out by washing my face with my line's cleansers, the clearing oil and cleansing water. Then I use my plumping lotion; it has these gold specks in it and it really does something nice to your skin. I use Clearstem's Hydraglow stem cell moisturizer before I put on my foundation, and then at night I'll put on their Clearity serum with vitamin C and mandelic acid as well as their CellRenew serum. The beauty product most nostalgic to me is red lipstick. It's something I started to wear once I moved to New York, because my mom didn't let me wear lipstick as a teenager. I've been using Anna Sui Cosmetics the longest; we're going on 25 years of that. We always do a red lipstick, number 400, that I wear. I also like the Nars lip pencil in Dragon Girl that I put underneath my lipstick. And I always wear my Perfect eyeliner. I use this eyeliner brush that's Thierry Mugler, and it's thick — it gives me that wide eyeliner look that I like. I wear my signature winged eyeliner everywhere, even when I go to the gym, even when I go to the drugstore. I love going to Bigelow [in the West Village] because they have a bubble bath that I like, Mistral in Lychee Rose Floral. I realize that bubble baths must not be popular now, because it's really hard to find. But I like those bubbles. I guess from old movies, you always see the glamour pusses in the bathtub with all the bubbles. Garren New York, he's cut my hair forever and nobody cuts hair like Garren. I get so many comments like, "You have such a great haircut." I get my hair cut maybe three times a year, but I trim my own bangs in between with whatever scissors I have on hand. I wash my hair with R+C Television shampoo and conditioner or the Primary shampoo and conditioner and masque from their Bleu collection. I always use a Denman brush. Every time I go to London, I buy some from Boots. I also just bought a Dyson flat iron. I guess I copy my mom because she always wore fragrance, Chanel No. 5, and lipstick. I wear fragrance every day. I've been wearing our new Electric Whisper. I love the black currant and lychee, which give a slight fruitiness, but then the pink pepper patchouli and vetiver add a spiciness. And of course the hint of rose. Again to the gym, to the drugstore … it's just natural for me to wear it all the time like my mom. The other thing I always wear is nail polish. My favorite color is Seafoam Green. I hate chipped nails, so I usually do my own, twice a week.

STAY HERE

A New Lisbon Hotel With a Private Garden and River Views

Left: the front of a building with a sculpted hedge and yellow bordered umbrellas in the foreground. Right: a bed with a fabric headboard that has a leaf motif. Framed vegetable prints hang above the bed.
Left: a view of Tarabel Lisbon's blue exterior from the guests-only garden below. Right: looking into one of the 10 suites, all of which overlook the Tagus River. Courtesy of Tarabel Lisbon

By Cynthia Rosenfeld

Rose Fournier, the Swiss French interior designer and owner of Tarabel Marrakech, the 10-room riad that opened in the Moroccan city in 2007, spent the past five years overhauling a 19th-century mansion in Lisbon's Lapa neighborhood. Situated across a cobblestone street from the United States ambassador's residence, Tarabel Lisbon is set to open next month behind a facade painted enamel blue in homage to Queluz Palace, built in 1747 for the first female ruler of Portugal. For her new hotel's relaxed, elegant interiors, Fournier scoured French flea markets for antique furniture ("Everything Napoleon III is comfortable," she says) to mix with extra-deep, French linen-covered couches and a stone fireplace she brought over from her private Megève chalet, plus trompe l'oeil bookshelves and birdcages by the painter Gonçalo Jordão. All nine rooms across four levels have views over the Tagus River, some extending to private terraces. Specialist carpenters from France who work at the Palace of Versailles hand carved intricate treillage woodwork for some of the rooms, while closets were finished in leather by Moroccan artisans. Green parrots crisscross the sky above the guests-only garden that's bordered by jacaranda trees. There's also a glass-tiled swimming pool, heated year-round. From about $525 a night, tarabellisbon.com.

WEAR THIS

A Third-Generation Jeweler's Botanical Rings

Left: a gold ring engraved with flowers is balanced on a white petal. Right: a gold ring engraved with flowers sits in a wine glass with a bunch of grapes. Two seashells sit next to the glass.
Rings from Alexis Alexandra Briano's inaugural jewelry collection for her namesake brand, Alexis Alexandra. The pieces are based on original designs by Briano's father and grandfather. Left: the Lilium. Right: a still life featuring the Viola, a band of blooming pansies. Romain Roucoules

"I grew up around the remnants — gold dust, stones and wax," Alexis Alexandra Briano says of A. Hagosian & Son, the jewelry shop that her grandfather Aram and her father, John, maintained for half a century inside the Sir Francis Drake Hotel in San Francisco. Aram opened the store in the 1930s after having escaped the 1915 Armenian genocide and, especially because of the precarity from which it emerged, Briano didn't want the business to die with her father. A few years ago, she found a Los Angeles-based goldsmith with the skills to recreate Aram and John's intricate designs — lost-wax cast, hand-engraved pieces inspired by the work of the 16th-century Italian sculptor and jeweler Benvenuto Cellini, and by the natural world. The result, launching this week, is a collection of eight 18-carat-gold rings featuring wraparound botanical motifs. There are delicate bands of interconnected pansies and weightier, wreathlike ones modeled after ferns and bay laurel or acanthus leaves. With their fine etchings and antique finishes, the designs — including one with snaking stems and drooping lilies — have an old-world appeal, though Briano notes that a band carved with acorns is also "so California." While building the collection, Briano, who is also a psychotherapist, thought about what it is to withstand hardship or mine a difficult history and come out on the other side with something beautiful. She sees the project, which she's named Alexis Alexandra, as a tribute to her family, and yet she also wants to move the story forward. She plans to experiment with her own designs — and with various gems — and hopes, one day, to pass her knowledge down to her daughter. Prices on request, alexisalexandra.com.

COVET THIS

Revived Furniture by the French Designer Pierre Guariche

Left: a white chair is on a sheepskin rug with a stack of books and a white floor lamp next to it. Right: a brown chair with arm rests and a black cushion on its seat is against a white wall.
Left: the Vallée Blanche chaise longue and G21 floor lamp, designed by Pierre Guariche and reissued by Ligne Roset. Right: the Tonneau chair, Pierre Gauriche's molded plywood seat, recreated by Ligne Roset.  Courtesy of Ligne Roset

By Megan O'Sullivan

In 1962, the French designer Pierre Guariche created a collection for La Plagne, a ski resort in France's alpine Tarentaise valley. Among the pieces was a wool-upholstered chaise longue called the Vallée Blanche, meant to mirror the curves of the mountains and named after the world's longest ski run. The chair was honored at the homeware exhibition Salon des Arts Ménegers the following year and is now part of the Centre Pompidou's permanent collection of revolutionary designs. This fall, over 60 years since Vallée Blanche's inception, the French furniture manufacturer Ligne Roset is reissuing it as part of a 16-piece collection of furniture and lighting from Guariche's archives dating from the 1950s to the '70s. "We wanted to extend the lives of these historic models," says Ligne Roset's executive vice president, Simone Vingerhoets-Ziesmann. To ensure a faithful recreation, the company went beyond referencing drawings: "We purchased the existing original Guariche designs and studied them," says Vingerhoets-Ziesmann. "For the Vallée Blanche, there were only four left." Ligne Roset's designers preserved Gauriche's original structure, building the spider-shaped base from welded steel and using polyurethane foam, a durable performance material, for the chair's cushion. "We want the functionality to be embraced," says Vingerhoets-Ziesmann. Other revived items include the gently curving Tonneau Chair, whose seat is formed from a single piece of plywood, and the G10 sofa, an upholstered couch with plywood panels. From $860, ligne-roset.com.

DRINK HERE

Balinese Artistry Finds a New Home in a Frankfurt Cocktail Bar

Left: a portrait of a man wearing a t-shirt and baseball cap hangs on a white-painted brick wall. Below it is a chair and side tables and a bar made of blue tiles. Right: a white plate with vegetables and a glass filled with an orange liquid.
Left: at Toko & Bar in Frankfurt's Lindenberg Libertine hotel, inspiration comes from the hospitality brand's hotel on Bali. On the wall is a photograph of its surf instructor taken by the German photographer Neven Allgeier. Right: a Toko bar snack featuring roasted greens, mayo, cress and seeds.  Jack Johns

By Gisela Williams

Frankfurt, Germany's financial capital, isn't necessarily known for its creative scene but, though it may be small, it does exist: Artists like the sculptors Tobias Rehberger and Martin Wenzel live and work in the city; DJ Ata Macias owns the lively Cafe Plank! in the Bahnhofviertel, a neighborhood near the main train station; and, since it opened in 2016, the stylish boutique hotel Libertine Lindenberg has been attracting artsy visitors to the historic Sachsenhausen neighborhood. Last month, the Libertine opened a bar on its ground floor called Toko & Bar. It's inspired by Indonesian flavors and handicraft — Lindenberg, the hospitality group behind the property, also has a surf hotel on Bali — with cocktails featuring ingredients like Kaffir lime leaves and rosella. Snacks on offer include the Drunken Gurk, a pickled cucumber served with peanut crunch and a shot of a strong Indonesian rice spirit called arak. The tables are set with textiles and brass cutlery commissioned by the hotel and made by Balinese artisans. thelindenberg.com.

SMELL THIS

A Fragrance Inspired by Cannabis and Wild Plants

Left: a sepia tone photo of a perfume bottle with a round wood cap balanced on a stone with dirt beneath it. Right: a plant pot from which emerge two sticks. On the sticks are paper cutouts of leaves.
Left: Wenjüe Lu's debut fragrance Wiid. Right: the artist Wenjüe Lu's sculpture of an ikebana arrangement of the "Wiid" plant, featuring newspaper cutouts of hemp and patchouli leaves. Wenjüe Lu

By Gage Daughdrill

Since launching in 2020, the Brooklyn creative studio Wenjüe Lu has released limited collections of clothes, soft sculptures and installations with the aim of promoting "longevity, sustainability and individuality," says co-founder Chufeng Fang. Its garments are made from undyed cotton and linen, and the studio offers a mending service for customers to encourage lifelong ownership. In September the brand launched a fragrance in collaboration with the New York-based perfumer Yi Fei Li. The scent, called Wiid, has notes of bitter gourd, marijuana and patchouli. "We wanted to begin with the cannabis plant and end with something that feels more like an incense stick," says Fang. Wiid is bottled in hand-carved glass bottles with wooden lids — each one is numbered and unique. And for those who want an additional layer to their fragrance, Fang and his co-founder Wenjüe Lu have created a zine, Wild Is the Wiid, that offers a guide to experiencing the perfume as well as poetry. $100, wenjuelu.com.

FROM T'S INSTAGRAM

Inside a Legendary New York Hotel, a Home With Wall-to-Wall Tiger Print

A large room with tiger-print carpeting and lime green upholstered furniture.
Christopher Sturman

In Manhattan's Sherry-Netherland, the 38-story Jazz Age co-op and hotel overlooking Central Park at 59th Street, the interior designer Martin Brûlé has reimagined a home that inhabits an entire floor.

The Montreal-born Brûlé was commissioned to do the apartment in 2021, a few years after he opened his namesake New York office, by a Latin American-born client with a family of five who works in a rarefied corner of the international jewelry business. Brûlé has since transformed the 11,000 square feet, which once housed the hotel's barbershop, gym and several offices, into a wildly imaginative and distinctively uptown version of open-plan living.

With vast spaces separated mainly by three monumental sets of custom-forged, nickel-plated steel pocket doors, its free-flowing layout is arrayed with finely crafted 18th- and 19th-century European antiques, modernist furniture from the 1930s and '40s and a vivid pastiche of intensely colored velvets, silks and satins.

Click here to take a full tour of the Manhattan home and follow us on Instagram.

And if you read one thing on tmagazine.com this week, make it:

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Saturday, April 29, 2023

The Morning: “Are You There God? It’s Me Margaret” arrives

How Judy Blume incepted us all.

Good morning. The books we read when we're young help shape the adults we become in ways we don't always grasp.

María Jesús Contreras

Preteen sensations

If you ask any kids who grew up reading Judy Blume, they'll tell you precisely what they learned from each of Blume's books; which taboo rites of passage each book introduced; probably even where they were, physically and developmentally, when they first stumbled on this information. They might very well remember the precise page number of the paperback that was passed around middle school on which the most eye-opening passages appeared.

I recently reread her classic, "Are You There God? It's Me, Margaret," in advance of seeing the film adaptation that opens this week, 52 years after the book's publication.

In my memory, "Margaret" was chiefly about puberty, specifically about getting your period for the first time. I vividly remembered the famous scenes when Margaret first encounters sanitary napkins and when she and her friends do exercises in order to "get out of those baby bras," chanting, "We must — we must — we must increase our bust!"

As I reread the book, though, I was struck not only by its Big Moments, but also by the many small, almost trivial ones that I'd unwittingly assimilated into my understanding of the world.

There's an early scene in which Margaret's father injures himself while mowing the lawn and Margaret runs out into the yard "to look for the limb," in case the doctor might be able to sew it back on.

I stopped short. This scene was as real to me as one of my own memories. When I'd read the book as an adolescent, it was the first time I'd heard about such a grisly surgical procedure. I didn't actively think of it again, but "you should always look for the limb" became part of my smart aleck's understanding of the world, a bit of wisdom, never questioned. I never tied this knowledge back to the book or any source.

"Margaret" also instilled in me the belief that wearing loafers with socks makes one "look like a baby" and that it was possible to get a custom label made for a homemade sweater that said "Made Expressly for You … by Grandma." Small details, certainly not the main themes of the book, not what I'd tell any adult at the time that I "took away" from reading it.

"Margaret" the movie — which you should see if you loved the book, or loved the director Kelly Fremon Craig's first film, "Edge of Seventeen" — is full of these details, moments that change a young reader quietly. Watching it, I felt little electrical connections being made between my childhood brain and my adult brain, between the data that was inputted decades ago and the coherent knowledge it's become.

For more

  • Blume, Fremon Craig and the film's stars discussed the novel's cultural impact.
  • "Somebody used to say to me, 'Just wait till all these kids who grew up with you get to those positions of power in Hollywood — you will see.'" Blume on how the "Margaret" film finally came to be.
  • "To us, Margaret Simon wasn't a character, she was a proxy — for the girl who stuffed socks in her bra, who felt uncomfortable in her own skin; for the girl who was homesick for a friend who had matured overnight or moved away or turned mean; for the girl who struggled to make sense of the diagrams on the origami-folded instructions inside the tampon box." The Times's Elisabeth Egan on the book's enduring appeal.
  • From April 2020, Cheryl Strayed's podcast interview with Blume.

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THE WEEK IN CULTURE

Harry Belafonte.(Photo by Keystone/Getty Images)

THE LATEST NEWS

Voters in North Carolina last year.Sean Rayford/Getty Images
  • North Carolina's Supreme Court, with a newly elected Republican majority, reversed its own 2022 ruling about voting district maps.
  • U.S. wage growth remained strong in early 2023 — good news for workers, but a concern for policymakers trying to tamp down inflation.
  • The Federal Reserve acknowledged its own failure to address the risks at Silicon Valley Bank that led to its collapse.
  • The Russian military bombed towns and cities across Ukraine, killing at least 25 people in the deadliest attacks in months.
  • Supreme Court Justice Samuel Alito said he had "a pretty good idea who is responsible" for leaking a draft of his opinion overturning Roe v. Wade.
  • Montana's Republican governor signed a bill into law to restrict transition care for transgender minors.

Enjoy the complete Times experience today.

The New York Times All Access subscription brings you full digital access to news and analysis, plus Games, Cooking, Wirecutter and The Athletic. Subscribe today at this introductory rate.

CULTURE CALENDAR

📚 "Trust" (Tuesday): In this novel by Hernan Diaz, now available in paperback, the life of an early 20th-century New York financier is told from four different perspectives. Named one of The Times's 10 best books of 2022, we called "Trust" an "exhilarating pursuit."

🍿 "Guardians of the Galaxy Vol. 3" (Friday): One of the few directors to hop back and forth between the Marvel Cinematic Universe and the DC Extended Universe, James Gunn is taking one more swing with Star Lord and Co. before taking on yet another Superman reboot. Expect jokes, classic rock tunes and light profanity.

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RECIPE OF THE WEEK

David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist; Simon Andrews.

Artichoke Carbonara

Whether you're planning a festive spring gathering or looking to make yourself something extra special for dinner this weekend, Anna Francese Gass's delightful artichoke carbonara might be just the thing. In her clever recipe, she levels up an easy weeknight pasta by stirring in canned or frozen artichoke quarters, adding flavor and texture without much effort. For a vegetarian version, skip the pancetta and caramelize some onions or mushrooms in the pan instead. Then top each bowl with a raw egg yolk for the silkiest carbonara sauce imaginable.

REAL ESTATE

Frances Palmer

How to grow dahlias: Plant them soon, and other tips.

What you get for $450,000: A townhouse in Atlanta; a 19th-century home in Frederick, Md.; or a Craftsman bungalow in Spokane, Wash.

The hunt: Two Americans wanted a condo in Playa del Carmen, Mexico. Which one did they buy? Play our game.

Statement décor: How to design your entryway (even if it's small).

LIVING

Nadia Hafid

Tipping: Gratuities have become confusing. Here's advice on how to give.

Art and design: Local museums are diversifying their exhibitions.

Mittelschmerz: Find out more about the mysteries of ovulation pain.

What's going on with Covid? Hospitalizations and deaths are lower.

ADVICE FROM WIRECUTTER

Make your cold brew

Unless you're a year-round iced coffee hound, you may be making the annual transition from hot drip to cold brew. At the coffee shop, that can be a splurge, but at home, switching to cold brew might actually save you money. A good cold brew maker, like Wirecutter's pick from OXO, can smooth out the rough edges of inexpensive, mediocre beans, producing a sweet, mellow concentrate that will last all week. I even like to brew the same grounds twice — coffee pros might disapprove, but the results are great, especially with a splash of milk. — Marguerite Preston

GAME OF THE WEEKEND

Frank Franklin Ii/Associated Press

New Jersey Devils vs. New York Rangers, N.H.L. playoffs: These two teams are so close that you could probably see one arena from the roof of the other without the skyscrapers in the way. Maybe that's why they have each looked so comfortable in away games: The Rangers started the series with two blowout wins in Newark, and then the Devils won two games in Manhattan. The Devils now lead the series, 3-2, and can advance with a win tonight. Good news for them: The game is in New York. 8 p.m. Eastern on ABC.

More N.H.L. news

  • The Islanders — New York's other team — were eliminated last night by the Carolina Hurricanes. The Dallas Stars knocked off the Minnesota Wild.
  • The Boston Bruins' historic season is in trouble: After a loss last night, they are headed to Game 7 against the Florida Panthers.

NOW TIME TO PLAY

The pangram from yesterday's Spelling Bee was excitement. Here is today's puzzle.

What were the hardest and easiest 10 words from the past week of Spelling Bees? See our lists here.

Take the news quiz to see how well you followed this week's headlines.

Thanks for spending part of your weekend with The Times. — Melissa

The Morning Newsletter Logo

Editor: David Leonhardt

Deputy Editor: Amy Fiscus

News Editor: Tom Wright-Piersanti

News Staff: Lyna Bentahar, Lauren Jackson, Sean Kawasaki-Culligan, Brent Lewis, German Lopez, Claire Moses, Ian Prasad Philbrick, Ashley Wu

News Assistant: Lauren Hard

Saturday Writer: Melissa Kirsch

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